Maltese Almond Cakes

Kwarezimal are traditional Maltese Lenten cakes packed with almonds, scented with cinnamon, and bright with the zest of oranges, lemons, and tangerines. The name comes from “quaresima” (Lent), and they’re made without eggs, butter, or dairy, which made them acceptable during fasting periods.

A third of the almonds get ground to a powder, adding structure and moisture to the dough, while the rest stay slivered for crunch. Toast all the almonds first to deepen their flavor before grinding. The dough will be sticky and stiff, more like a thick paste than a typical cookie dough. That’s exactly right.

Shape the dough into flat logs and bake them whole, then slice into thin pieces with a serrated knife while still slightly warm. This bake-then-slice technique is the same idea as biscotti and gives you a firm, crunchy cookie that keeps well.

Brushing with honey while hot is optional but traditional. The warm surface absorbs the honey and creates a glossy, slightly tacky finish that extra toasted almonds cling to.

Pro Tips

• Add water gradually since the amount needed changes depending on how finely the almonds are ground
• Let the logs cool about 20 minutes before slicing so they hold their shape but aren’t rock-hard
• Use a sharp serrated knife and a gentle sawing motion to avoid crumbling
• Orange-flower water is the traditional Maltese choice if you can find it at a specialty store

Variations

• Substitute hazelnuts for almonds in the classic Maltese tradition
• Use orange liqueur or rum in place of some of the water for a richer flavor
• Grind all the nuts for a finer, more uniform texture, but add extra water to compensate