Almond Paste Macaroons

These almond macaroons predate the pastel sandwich cookies that hijacked the name. Old-school, crackle-topped, chewy in the middle, with a deep almond perfume that comes from making the paste yourself and letting it sit in the fridge for at least four days before baking.

The aging matters. Right out of the bowl the paste tastes flat and one-note. Four days later the bitter almond extract has softened and the almonds have soaked into the powdered sugar, giving you a base that smells like a Neapolitan pastry counter.

Once the paste is ready, the dough comes together fast. Flour stays minimal so the cookies stay chewy rather than cakey, and patting the tops with cold water before they bake is what gives them that signature glossy crackle.

A vintage detail worth keeping: bake on plain wrapping paper rather than parchment. The slightly absorbent paper prevents the bottoms from greasing up and lifts off cleanly when the cookies cool.

Chef Tips

• Plan ahead. Mix the paste at least four days before baking. A week is even better.
• The dough will look loose after you mix in the egg whites. That’s correct. It firms up on the sheet as it bakes.
• Rotate pans halfway through baking. The bottoms color quickly once they start, and uneven oven heat can leave one tray pale and another scorched.
• Let cool fully on the paper before lifting. Warm macaroons tear; cooled ones release in one clean piece.

Variations

• Stir a tablespoon of finely chopped candied orange peel into the paste before molding for a Sicilian twist.
• Top each cookie with a single pine nut before baking for a pignoli-cookie finish.