Little Plum Cakes

These little plum cakes are an old English tradition where “plum” doesn’t mean the fruit at all. It means loaded with dried fruit. A full pound each of currants and raisins go into a rich butter batter perfumed with lemon zest and nutmeg, then dropped by spoonfuls and baked into small, dense, golden mounds.

Tossing the fruit in a cup of flour before mixing it into the batter is an old baker’s trick. The flour coating keeps the heavy currants and raisins suspended in the batter instead of sinking to the bottom during baking. Skip this step and all your fruit ends up in one sad layer at the base.

The two-temperature bake is clever. Starting hot at 450°F (230°C) sets the exterior quickly, creating a light crust that holds the shape. Then dropping to 350°F (180°C) lets the inside cook through gently without burning the edges. Watch them closely during that first blast of heat since a few minutes is all it takes to go from golden to scorched.

A full pound of butter and twelve eggs make this an unapologetically rich batter. The eggs go in unbeaten, alternating with flour and sugar, which creates a dense, moist crumb rather than a fluffy cake texture.

Chef Tips

• Cream the butter thoroughly until it’s pale and light before adding anything else. This is the foundation of the texture
• Add the eggs one or two at a time, mixing between additions. Dumping all twelve at once will break the emulsion
• Use a small cookie scoop or two teaspoons to portion evenly so they bake at the same rate
• These keep well in a tin for up to a week and actually improve in flavor after a day or two

Variations

• Soak the currants and raisins in brandy or rum overnight for a boozy, holiday-worthy version
• Add mixed candied peel along with the dried fruit for a more traditional Christmas cake flavor
• Substitute orange zest for lemon for a warmer, sweeter citrus note