Hunkar Begendi (Grilled Eggplant with Cheese)

Hunkar begendi ("the sultan liked it") is a Turkish classic that turns smoky grilled eggplant into a rich, creamy side dish. The eggplants cook whole on a covered barbecue or in the oven until completely tender, then get peeled, seeded, and cubed before folding into a butter-flour bechamel with mozzarella and a whisper of nutmeg.

Smoking the eggplant on the grill gives the flesh a deep, charred flavor that the oven method can’t fully match. If you have access to a grill, use it. That smoky note is what makes begendi haunting and complex, not just another cheesy eggplant dish.

The lemon water bath after cooking prevents the peeled eggplant from oxidizing and turning brown. It also adds a subtle acidity that balances the richness of the cheese sauce.

Kitchen Tips

• Pierce the eggplant a few times with a fork before grilling or baking. Unpierced eggplant can burst from steam buildup.
• Remove as many seeds as you can after peeling. Seeds add bitterness.
• Cook the roux until light brown before adding milk. This adds a toasty, nutty flavor to the bechamel that complements the smoky eggplant.
• Keep the heat very low once everything is combined. High heat causes the cheese to separate and turn stringy.

Variations

• Traditional service: Spoon the begendi onto a plate and top with braised lamb stew (hunkar begendi’s classic pairing).
• Gruyere version: Swap the mozzarella for gruyere for a sharper, more pronounced cheese flavor with better melting.