Georgian Spitted Chicken with Plum Sauce

Georgia (the country, not the U.S. state) gave the world a sauce called tkemali, made from sour wild plums, garlic, fresh coriander, and a punch of chili. It’s the national condiment, the way ketchup is in America, and this recipe pairs a simplified version with whole chickens broiled low under butter.

Broiling (rather than true spit-roasting) is the home-kitchen workaround. Start skin-side down, brush generously with melted butter, and cook under medium heat for the full hour, turning a few times to get even browning. The butter bastes the meat constantly and builds a burnished, crackling skin.

The sauce comes together fast. Pureed plums heat through on the stove with crushed garlic, coriander (or parsley if that’s what’s on hand), salt, pepper, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Serve it alongside the chicken, not poured over, so the skin stays crisp.

Garnish the platter with sliced tomatoes and cucumbers the Georgian way: plain, simple, letting the chicken and sauce do the talking.

Chef Tips

• Use tart plums (Italian prune, damson, or greengage) for the sauce. Sweet dessert plums need added acid to taste right.
• Start with the skin side down under the broiler so the fat renders and crisps as the breast cooks through.
• Watch the chicken closely in the last 15 minutes. Butter-brushed skin goes from golden to burnt fast.
• Serve the sauce at room temperature, not piping hot. The flavors open up more.

Variations

• Sub pureed cranberries or sour cherries if plums aren’t in season.
• Add a tablespoon of pomegranate molasses to the sauce for extra tartness and depth.
• Finish with chopped fresh dill and parsley for a classic Caucasian herb topping.