Fresh Tuna & Peas

This tuna and pea braise is a Mediterranean coastal classic, where fresh tuna steaks are cut into cubes and gently braised in a chunky tomato sauce with sweet peas until just barely cooked through. Fresh tuna (not canned) is the move here; the steak holds its shape during the brief simmer and stays meaty rather than flaking apart like a stew.

The 20-minute covered braise is enough to cook the tuna without drying it out. Pull the lid at the moment the fish flakes easily with a fork; longer and the tuna turns into a chalky, dry version of itself.

Onion and garlic sweated in good olive oil first, then peas added before any liquid hits the pan, lets each ingredient develop its own character before the tomatoes and tuna join in. Serve over polenta, pasta, or with crusty bread to mop up the sauce.

Chef Tips

• Use sushi-grade or very fresh tuna from a trusted fishmonger; grocery-store frozen tuna often turns mushy in a braise.
• Cut the tuna into uniform one-inch cubes for even cooking; uneven pieces leave you with both raw and overcooked bits in the same pan.
• Use whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes for the cleanest flavor; break them up with a wooden spoon as they cook.
• Don’t overcook. Tuna is best at medium, where the center still has a hint of pink. Pull the pan off the heat right when the fish first flakes.

Variations

• Swap fresh swordfish for the tuna; same technique, slightly milder flavor.
• Add a tablespoon of capers and a handful of pitted olives for a Sicilian-style version.
• Stir a pinch of red pepper flakes in with the garlic for gentle heat.