Dad's Melty Biscuits

These are the kind of biscuits that disappear straight off the baking sheet, tall and fluffy with soft, buttery middles. The trick is the leavening: a hefty dose of baking powder backed up by cream of tartar, which together push these higher than your average biscuit, while an egg adds richness and structure.

Two habits separate good biscuits from tough hockey pucks. First, handle the dough as little as possible, just 10 to 12 gentle kneading strokes, since overworking develops gluten and toughens them.

Second, cut straight down with the biscuit cutter and don’t twist it. Twisting pinches the edges shut and stunts the rise, so a clean downward press is what gives you those lofty, layered sides.

Cutting the shortening into the flour until it looks like coarse crumbs builds little pockets of fat that steam apart in the heat, keeping the crumb soft. Bake them hot and fast, then serve warm with butter and jam.

Pro Tips

• Knead just 10 to 12 strokes. Overworked dough means dense, tough biscuits.
• Press the cutter straight down without twisting so the biscuits rise tall and even.
• Keep the shortening cold and cut it in only to coarse crumbs for the flakiest texture.
• Set the biscuits close together on the sheet so they support each other and climb higher.

Variations

• Stir in shredded cheddar and a pinch of garlic powder for savory cheese biscuits.
• Brush the tops with melted butter the moment they come out of the oven.
• Add a little more sugar and serve with berries and cream for shortcakes.