Barbecued Texas Cabrito

Cabrito, young goat, is the prize of Texas and Tex-Mex barbecue, and this is the real deal: smoked low and slow until the meat turns tender and smoky. It starts with a slather of prepared mustard, which helps a bold dry rub of lemon pepper, chili powder, garlic and cayenne cling to the meat as it rests overnight.

The mop sop is where Texas pitmasters earn their reputation. Butter, onion, garlic, lemon, lime, beer and Worcestershire simmer into a basting liquid that keeps the goat moist and builds layer after layer of flavor as you brush it on through the long smoke.

Patience is the only hard part. The goat smokes for hours over indirect heat, getting mopped along the way, then finishes wrapped in foil to push it to fall-apart tender. Rest it before slicing, and serve with barbecue sauce on the side.

Chef Tips

• The overnight rest with the mustard and rub is worth it. The mustard helps the rub adhere, and the time lets the flavor sink in.
• Smoke low and slow over indirect heat. Goat is lean, so gentle smoking keeps it from drying out.
• Mop with the sop regularly, as directed, to keep the meat moist and layer on flavor.
• Wrap in foil to finish, which steams the meat tender and speeds the final stretch. Rest before slicing so the juices settle.

Variations

• The rub and sop work on cabrito, lamb, or even pork shoulder if goat is hard to find.
• Adjust the cayenne up or down to set the heat.
• Serve with warm tortillas, salsa and pickled onions for a Tex-Mex spread.