Alice Almond Pound Cake

The cold-oven start is what sets this almond pound cake apart from the dozens of other versions floating around. You slide the bundt pan into an unheated oven, set the dial low, and let the cake rise gently as the oven climbs. The result is an even, crackless top and a tight, velvety crumb without that domed, split look pound cakes can develop.

Three fats do the work here. Butter for flavor, shortening for tenderness and a longer shelf life, and the fat in evaporated milk for richness. Skip the shortening and the cake picks up a touch more flavor but a coarser texture, so it’s worth keeping both.

The almond extract sounds aggressive on paper. It isn’t. Pound cake batter has the body to absorb that perfume without going soapy, and the flavor settles into something floral and warm by day two, which is why this cake gets better wrapped up overnight.

Pro Tips

• Cream the sugar and fats long enough to lighten in color, several minutes on a stand mixer. Pound cakes live or die by the air whipped in here.
• Add the eggs one at a time and let each fully incorporate before the next. Rushing this step curdles the batter.
• The cold-oven method is intentional. Don’t preheat. Setting the dial after the pan goes in is part of the recipe.
• Cool fifteen minutes before turning out. Less and it tears, more and it sticks.

Variations

• Whisk powdered sugar, milk, and a few drops of almond extract into a thin glaze that drips into the bundt grooves.
• Fold toasted almonds, finely chopped, into the batter for crunch.
• Swap lemon extract for almond and add a tablespoon of zest for a brighter, summery cake.