Fettucine with Tomato Basil Pesto

This is the lighter, brighter cousin of classic Genoese basil pesto. A handful of seeded fresh tomato goes into the food processor with basil, pine nuts, garlic, and Parmesan, and the result is a pesto that tastes of late summer rather than the dense, oil-slicked stuff out of a jar.

Seed the tomatoes before they go in, the directions specify it for a reason. The seeds and pulpy gel water down the pesto and turn it pink-tinged and runny. Just the firm tomato flesh keeps the sauce thick enough to cling to the fettuccine.

Process the basil, garlic, pine nuts, and tomato to a chunky texture before adding the oil. A food processor pulse-blended at first preserves bright herb color and keeps the pesto from going soupy. Stream in the olive oil at the end, just until emulsified.

Tossing the pesto with hot pasta is what wakes it up. The residual heat from just-drained noodles releases the basil aroma and softens the cheese into a glossy coating. Serve right away, pesto pasta loses its sparkle the longer it sits.

Chef Tips

• Toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium for 2 to 3 minutes until pale gold and fragrant. Untoasted pine nuts taste flat.
• Use the best olive oil you have. It is half the flavor of a no-cook sauce, so a fruity extra-virgin makes a real difference.
• Reserve a half cup of pasta water before draining. A splash loosens the pesto into a creamy coat that hugs every strand.
• Salt the pasta water like the sea. Pesto itself is on the milder side, the noodles need to carry their own seasoning.

Variations

• Add a handful of toasted walnuts in place of half the pine nuts for a richer, earthier pesto.
• Stir in a quarter cup of crumbled feta or fresh ricotta for a creamier sauce with tang.
• Fold halved cherry tomatoes into the finished pasta for extra fresh-tomato bite alongside the pesto.